Mully Paddle

Posted on by Shambles

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This photo was taken by Michal Czubala from Offshore Watersports while I was out attempting to paddle in to a lumpy, big and windy swell dubbed ‘Hercules’ in the media along with Fergal Smith and Conor Flanagan. To be honest, I’d never tried to paddle anything that big before so it was more of an experiment than a surf.

 

This was the first wave I went for and I made it, super stoked. It is hard to explain how mental it felt to be out paddling that day, I didn’t really have a clue what was going on. While paddling out I saw waves so shallow and round I couldn’t even mind surf them. The waves were super hard to catch and it definitely felt like an achievement to catch one. I got a pretty spectacular wipeout on one wave where I fell out of the sky from the top to the bottom. I survived the wipeout too, which is nice to know. I tried to shake it off and paddle out for one more wave but by then it was full low tide and conditions were sketchy. The next half hour was the scariest half hour of my life as I sat out there dodging set after set. I finally said to myself, ‘what the hell am I doing out here’ and got the got the hell out of there.

 

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