This picture was taken at Rileys a few months ago by top waterphotographer George Karbus (Emerald-vision.com). Myself and fellow Science team mate Shane Meehan decided to hit the road to Clare at 3am to make the best of the tide. We didn’t feel so clever when we completed our tiring mission and arrived at the wave only to find it was flat. Dead flat. I think anyone who has chased swells in Ireland can relate, it is what we call a skank-mission.
Still, we tried not to get too bummed. We went and visited Mickey Smith for a cup of tea and a catch up and then went along to Ferg’s community garden to help out. By the afternoon we decided the swell might have jumped so we risked another mission to the spot. We weren’t disappointed. We scored sunny, fun four foot Rileys with a good crew of mates. I remember seeing George hike down to the wave with his young son in tow, kind of like daddy bringing his son to work. And what an office. George floated into the lineup and we managed hook up on this beauty. It was a lone nugget that swung in deep on the reef. I love this shot because of the amazing colours produced by the evening light but also because you can see the shadow of the lip falling just in front of me. It is nice to know you were as deep as you thought, I held on and the wave guzzled me out into the channel. Just this once our skank-mission paid off.